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    → 左岸讀書,一如既往。

    遇見平遙,遇見古城

    2019-06-05 . 閱讀: 579 views

    文/一小點

    在我的認知里,所謂旅行就是應該去一個蓄謀已久卻說走就走的遠方,這句話的重點是想強調“遠方”。比如,北方人習慣了幅員遼闊、一馬平川、大漠孤煙的壯麗豪放,他們出行首選的目的地是不是應該像南方那樣,小橋流水,一蓑煙雨、古巷悠長的雋永內秀。所以這一次的平遙之行算是意料之外,尤其它帶給我的那份驚喜,讓我認識了一座北方的古城也可以如此瑕不掩瑜。

    由于我和朋友是坐動車來的,所以離預定的民宿還有挺遠一段距離,我們需要乘公交到達古鎮外,民宿老板才會來接我們。雖然已是下午近七點鐘太陽還是格外刺眼,我無心于窗外的風景,因為根本沒有什么能稱之為景色的東西,只是一個和眾多北方縣城一樣的小縣城罷了,平淡無奇,還沒到古城,我本就不熱的心又涼了一截。

    公交晃了大約二十多分鐘,終于到達了和民宿老板約定來接我們的公交站,中間還出現了一個小插曲,由于站臺靠近路邊,車來車往都是灰塵,我倆就站到了站臺后面的輔道邊上,老板以為站臺上那兩個人是我們,陰差陽錯的接走了,還好及時發現,老板憨厚熱情的樣子也讓我們埋怨不起來,坐著他小三輪一路向古城奔去。

    此時,太陽已經快下山了,影影綽綽的留下一些余暉,空氣也從焦灼轉為清涼。當進入古城大門的時候不禁驚嘆,真的好像穿越了一樣,城內外完全兩個世界兩種節奏,濃郁的市井氣息充斥著每一個角落,街邊吆喝的小商販,趴在地上舒服打著盹的小狗,在家門口邊做手工邊聊天的白發老奶奶,追逐玩耍的小孩子……在這里生活是不是每天都有一個神仙般的午后,不,應該是神仙般的每一刻吧,我貪玩又好奇的心終于重啟了。

    我們住的民宿離城門很近,剛進城沒多久就到了要落腳的地方。我得著重說這下這間民宿,這是一個面積不大,統共就兩層的長方形小院,裝潢頗具山西特色,其實讓我會有這種地方特色感覺的應該是抬眼可見的大紅燈籠,不是我們平時過年那種橢圓形,是圓柱形的,雖說陜西山西緊鄰著,地域感還是有別的。

    我們住的房間,最讓我欣喜的就是那個大炕,炕上還放了一個小方桌,頗具東北特色,不過山西人睡炕也是有悠久歷史的,對我這種睡不慣軟床的人簡直大愛了,而且就算兩個人睡一張床,也完全不用擔心翻身時影響對方休息,我還和朋友打趣說這床的舒服程度已經讓我開始考慮以后家里要不要也盤個炕了。

    安頓好行李我們就迫不及待地下樓,老板拿出地圖向我們簡單交代了明天要去的一些景點,讓我們一會兒先去附近街上逛逛,吃點東西。沿著青石板路走了約10分鐘左右就到了古鎮最繁華的地帶,每個古鎮的商業化都是一種必然趨勢,可在平遙這種商業化卻沒有太大的違和感,平遙古城本就是晉商發家致富的天地,我們現在所看到的,也不過就是他們留下富甲一方的證據罷了。

    夜晚的古城自然是喧鬧熙攘的,穿梭在人群中卻不會覺得很擁擠,只是被這種熱鬧的氛圍包圍著,感染著。走到稍僻靜的地方,五彩斑斕的燈群也隨之淡去,只有幾盞鵝黃的路燈明著,空氣好像一下子安靜了下來,不經意間抬頭就會看到一輪明月透過古城建筑屋頂特有的瑞獸或屋脊輪廓,將它們的剪影投送到你的眼里,那一刻的溫柔平靜讓我還未離開就有不舍的情緒開始醞釀了。

    原來有的夜晚即使沒有燈光也不會被黑暗所帶來的不安包裹住,你會享受其中,會為此心生感動,感動于這么美麗的夜色能讓你邂逅,感動于天朗氣清中明月的相伴,感動于你此刻就存在于這份恬靜里,感動于身旁還有同伴與你共享這一刻的美好。

    次日行程比想象中還要緊俏,對于我這個方向感和空間感均為零的人表示一份地圖也就只能遮陽或者累了襯地上歇腳用,幸好同行的小伙伴將我的智商彌補了,她就像個人工GPS,看一眼地圖就可以準確無誤的找到目的地,后期的認路能力更是讓我分分鐘想扔掉那份揉的不成樣子的地圖。

    古城白天的熱鬧和夜晚是有著質的區別,白天大家都在忙走景點,打卡拍照,而夜晚人們才會置身古城變成這里的“居民”,就像飯后和家人散步閑聊那樣,不緊不慢怡然其中。相對于白天,我當然是喜歡夜幕下的平遙古城。

    古城的景點幾乎都被人文景觀囊括其中,城墻,廟宇,鏢局,錢莊,大院等等,都很有平遙味道,可身臨其間的我還是難已想象這幾百年前的富人區到底發生過什么,大概就像他們也想不到幾百年后自己日夜生息的地方會成為游覽勝地吧。百年前后的我們只不過身處同一空間,卻沒有辦法穿越到屬于他們的時間感受他們的故事,難免心生無奈。

    或許哪位大藝術家來到這里也有了同樣的感慨,于是就策劃出了《又見平遙》這部大型室內情景體驗劇。迷宮般的劇場有著繁復的空間分割,在90分鐘的時間里觀眾步行穿過幾個不同形態的主題空間,清末的平遙城,鏢局、趙家大院、街市、南門廣場等,整場演出就像一次“穿越”,我們有時像看客,有時又像親歷者,幾百年古城上演的一幀一幕清晰浮現在眼前,之前的無奈感也得到了最好的慰藉。

    我是一個很愛拍照的人,可這次觀看全程都未掏出手機,因為無論照片還是錄像,都無法替代你眼睛直觀看到隨之反饋給內心的東西,那是一份有重量的存在,不是僅憑幾張圖片或錄像就可以表達清楚的,所以如果以后你也有機會親臨這座古城,一定要去現場目不轉睛地看完整場演出。

    五月的平遙和大多數北方天氣一樣,自春向夏過度著,晴朗也干燥。這座歷史或許不算悠久的古城是會慢慢讓人愛上的,它沒有小橋流水的輕盈可人,卻有著青磚灰瓦的濃墨重彩;沒有煙雨朦朧的柔情內斂,卻有著大紅燈籠高高掛的熱情奔放;沒有依山傍水的得天獨厚,卻有著一群人用他們的智慧和勤勞親手搭建起來的一個“家”。

    平遙的四季應該都有它的魅力所在吧?只不過,平遙和我留給彼此的回憶都會是在一個五月清爽的初夏,穿著我最喜歡的襯衫,牛仔褲和帆布鞋,踱步在每一個屬于它的懷抱里。

    左岸記:一篇好的游記比自己親歷更引人入勝,小點的這篇游記就有這樣的功力,讓我夢回古城,流連忘返。

    左岸

    愛讀書,愛生活!

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