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    → 左岸讀書,一如既往。

    中國人吃飯“十大境界”

    2019-05-25 . 閱讀: 882 views

    文/行吟者

    我們有自古流傳的兩句話:一是“衣食足則知榮辱”,見于《管子?牧民》篇。一是“民以食為天”,是漢朝酈食其(yìjī)說的。這些都是從實際政治上認識了民食的基本性,也就是說從人民方面看,吃飯第一。

    但是,吃飯是很有講究的,體現著”禮”。這種”禮”的傳承,慢慢地就演化成了一些關于吃飯的習俗禁忌。筆者在這里講中國人吃飯須具備十大境界:

    第一境界:“果腹”。

    形式比較原始,只解決人的最基本的生理需要。這個境界的吃,不需要費心地找,各種商場的小吃城;街頭的川渝美食和中式的快餐店,如:各式面館、小吃等,西式快餐也可列入其中;一盤宮保雞丁,一盤白菜豆腐,外加一小碗湯,一碗米飯足以。一個人,兩個人,三五人均可。這個境界的吃,千萬別麻煩,一麻煩就脫離了本質,吃起來也就不爽。

    第二境界:“饕餮”。

    這個境界吃的是一個“爽”字。呼三五好友去一家大眾的館子,稀里嘩啦點上滿滿的一大桌菜,價錢卻不貴,胡吃海吃一通,興致所致,還能吆喝兩聲,劃幾下拳,甚至還可以赤膊上陣。適合這種吃法的有涮肉、大眾菜等。但免不了一個“俗”字,有不雅之嫌,同時也有浪費之嫌。

    第三境界:“聚會”。

    此種境界重在這個“聚”字。家人、朋友、加班聚餐等都屬于這一類。這種吃不需要太多的講究,“吃”是個形式,關鍵在“聚”的背后所引申出來另一種特別的含義。逢年過節、生日聚會、升遷發獎,友人來訪,隨便找個理由都可以去趟館子,這是一種禮節上的習慣。這種境界的“吃”講究個熱鬧。不需要太豪華和奢侈。高檔一點的還可以去吃一些比較有名氣的館子。

    第四境界:“宴請”。

    此種境界的吃,多以招待為主。商務招待、官場招待、上下級招待、危機處理招待、重大事情招待等都屬于這一范疇。這種吃不以“吃”的本質為主旨,關鍵在于這個招待背后的目的。所以,這種吃重在講究一個排場,價錢昂貴。這種吃都有一個共同點,大多都是在“包間”進行,所以,對館子的要求更嚴格一點。如各大賓館豪華餐廳,知名大酒樓里的海鮮、鮑翅宴、官府菜等。但這個境界的“吃”難免給人一種暴殄天物之嘆,吃后回來,卻又發現沒有吃飽。

    第五境界:“養生”。

    這種境界的吃,比較講究“食補”,是大吃大喝在認識觀念上的一種理性升華。這種吃多以正宗的煲湯為主:甲魚湯、老鴨湯、野山菌湯等,足足地燜上十多個小時,滿滿地端上來,味道純正;飽飽地喝上一頓,無比滋潤,真乃人生一大幸事,就是從心理上對積勞的身體也是一個安慰。這樣的館子有很多,進入飯店的正門,有一排瓷罐擺著,大多比較正宗。江西來的瓦罐、廣東來的各式煲、云南來的野山菌湯、正宗的魚翅煲、潮洲來的燕窩湯、官府菜的南瓜魚翅都是比較典型的。但價錢卻是一個瓶頸,不是一般人輕易就能上口的。

    第六境界:“解饞”。

    吃的東西一定要“鮮”。這個境界有兩個層次:一是吃“物”,如鮑魚、龍蝦、法式大餐之類;二是吃“名”、吃“文化”。

    第七境界:“覓食”。

    那就是四處去“找”。在尋找中獲得“吃”的樂趣,這是本境界的一大妙處。這個“找”又分為兩個層次,一個是有目的地去找名聲在外的流行館子;一個是漫無目的地找尋人氣旺盛的特色館子。這個“找”字重在一個偶然發現,豁然開朗,一下子就對上了當時的心情和感覺。

    第八境界:“獵艷”。

    館子要“奇”。這樣的館子都是比較稀罕的跨國風味,如:西班牙、意大利和阿拉伯來的,非洲、日本、泰國、越南來的,都在這一范疇。“新”、“奇”、“特”是主要特征。適合這類館子的人群一般是高尚人士、時尚人士、有品位的公司老板、白領人群等。價錢很貴,象征身份和地位。

    第九境界:“約會”。

    這時吃的已經不是“物”,而是“情”。一般是點的多,吃的少。凡是到這種地方來吃的,幾個人之間大多都有一種心靈上的默契,說出來就變得俗,不表現出來又壓抑。于是,以一個“吃”為借口“會”在一起。這類吃的館子有:茶餐廳、酒巴和咖啡店,而且一定還要有考究的裝飾。

    第十境界:“獨酌”。

    在于一個“品”字,吃什么不太重要,關鍵是一個寥落的心情,要么傷感、要么閑適。這種館子一定要是隱匿在很深的巷子里,店面古樸,又十分寧靜。這個時候還應該有一瓶古典的酒,最好屋外再飄著零星的雨絲或雪花。一個人淺斟低酌,物我兩忘。惟一的遺憾是,這種店已經很少有了,一般人恐怕只有在夢里才可以見得著。當然,這也是上流社會與主流人群最大的差異所在。

    左岸記:認真吃飯,是對生活最大的敬意,是生活中最佳的療愈方式。好好吃飯,就是"活在當下"的積極態度。沒有什么事情是一頓飯解決不了的,如果不行那就兩頓!

    [作者簡介]馬庸,(網名:行吟者、瑙瑪、白頭翁)自號:華城居士,湖北宜昌市人,中華詩詞學會會員,中國金融作家協會會員,中國思想政治工作研究會會員,中國企業文化研究會會員,中國管理科學研究院特約研究員,湖北省社會科學聯合會會員。閑暇之余,喜書畫、愛音樂,巳有500多篇詩歌、散文、隨筆、游記及精選留言等見之于報端和微刋及網絡。人生況味乃:壯世間百態,品塵間百味,感風雨人生。吾生故吾寫,吾寫故吾生,悠悠弊作,詩話人生。

    左岸

    愛讀書,愛生活!

    1 Comments On 中國人吃飯“十大境界”

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