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    → 左岸讀書,一如既往。

    浪跡天之涯海之角

    2019-04-16 . 閱讀: 512 views

    文/行吟者

    孤身一人,懷著一顆孤獨的心,行走在蒼茫的小路上,就這樣一天一天地走下去,一直走到天的盡頭,那是水天相接的地方,再也沒有路了。就像馬致遠說的“夕陽西下,斷腸人在天涯”一樣。夢里,我曾有過這樣的經歷。

    為了享受這份孤獨,恰有機會在參加一個企業文化論壇之后去領略海南島風情,走進了三亞這片海灣,用心靈去觸摸天涯,觸摸海角。

    站在那幾塊光禿禿的大石頭下向南望去,茫茫的大海上,有幾只海鷗正無聲地飛翔,我的心,就像這浩瀚無垠的大海一樣,顯得無限落寞和空曠。這就是三亞,中國最南邊的城市、古時的崖州,一個在內陸人看來十分遙遠和荒蠻的海島,古代人要坐著馬車,乘著海船,長行多少天才能到達的地方。可是,今天,坐在飛機上喝著咖啡,低頭在舷窗上看著云海,無論從祖國的那個方向,幾個小時就能飛到這里。是現代化的科學技術,縮短了人與天涯的距離。

    有人說,“天涯”和“海角”這兩組字是蘇東坡被貶到海南島時寫上去的,但我查遍了古籍才證實,“天涯”兩個字,乃是清代雍正年間崖州知州程哲所書,而“海角”兩個字,則不知出自何人之手了。不過由此想到,古代的海南島,是一個十分偏遠荒涼的所在,因此,帝王們常常把那些他不喜歡的官員或罪臣貶到這里。有文獻記載的,除了蘇東坡之外,還有唐宋時期的李德裕、李綱、趙鼎、胡銓、李光五位名臣被貶到海南。這五位名臣可都是有老百姓口碑的,而且死后又都被封為“公”的,因此,在海口,還留下了一座“五公祠”,讓這些先哲們的一縷忠魂留在海南。另外,還有許多不知名的內地官員,也曾被貶到這里來陪伴先賢的幽魂和品嘗偏遠,品嘗孤獨。

    我想,正是這些被貶的文人,才能寫下“天涯”和“海角”如此蒼涼的字句,而正是這幾個蒼涼的字,才浸透了他們蒼涼悲愴的心情,才引起了旅人孤寂的共鳴。如果再認真翻檢一下史書,我們還會發現,這些被貶的古人,幾乎都遭遇過朝廷中十分殘酷的爾夷我詐的黨爭和迫害。在封建專制、忠奸不分的時代,恐怕只有“天涯”,只有“海角”才能遠離政治的旋渦,給那些心靈受傷的人一點精神的喘息。

    說不上是出于對古代賢人的懷念還是別的什么,在天涯海角那幾塊大石頭周圍,我轉了一圈又一圈。四周游人熙熙攘攘,都是陌生的面孔,只有古人留下的字與我相知:

    有時候遇到不順,真的想逃到一處誰也不認識我的地方;
    陷入世事不能自拔時,天涯也許是你解脫的港灣;
    厭倦了市井的丑陋,孤獨就是一種最奢侈的享受。

    當我坐在沙灘上,看那海面上飛翔的海鷗,就羨慕起可以自由飛翔的小鳥,可以到它想去的任何地方。回頭再端詳那些大石頭,只見它們光禿禿的,沒有了一點凌角,是經多了海水的潮起潮落,看多了晝夜的斗轉星移,見多了人間的悲歡離合,嘗多了世上的苦辣酸甜吧。

     踟躇在斜陽下,望著那些光滑的非幾何形狀的大石頭,感覺它們好像是有人故意擺在那里的一樣。突然,游人們有些騷動,張目望去,是一對新人出現了。只見那新娘子穿著紅色的結婚禮服,新郎穿著西裝,手挽著手地,走向“天涯”,走向“海角”。攝影師跟著他們,把新人們的笑臉留下來,保存在光蝶中,定格在相冊里。新人的親朋好友們,則向讓路的游人們撒著糖果,換來的是不相識的游人拍手對新人的祝福。

    人們告訴我,每年,都會有無數對新人從遠方趕到三亞,在這片海灘上,在這幾塊大石頭下舉行一次別樣的新婚儀式,作為人生的永久紀念。它象征著,天涯海角,海枯石爛心不變。細問一下當地人才知道,原來,這出自一則美麗的傳說:

    人們說,“天涯”、“海角”兩塊大石本是一對癡情男女所變。傳說,古時內地有一男一女,自小青梅竹馬,相親相愛,長大后立下盟誓:生不能結為夫妻,死后即使變成石頭也要并肩相立。誰知雙方父母不許他們結成良緣,另擇婚配。兩人無奈,攜手私奔,一直逃到海邊。這時,追趕的家丁跟蹤而至。面對浩瀚無垠波濤洶涌的南海,年輕戀人無處可逃,只好緊緊擁抱,雙雙投海。一幫家丁橫沖過來分開了他們,此時風雨大作電閃雷鳴,兩人立刻變成一對大石頭,那些家丁也變成了他們中間的小石頭。后人為紀念他們,就在兩塊大石頭上刻下了“天涯”和“海角”四個字。再后來,男女相戀就常以“天涯海角永遠相隨”來表明自己的心跡了。

     如今,當我回到家中,回憶起天涯之旅,那些長著寬大葉片的椰子樹、棕櫚樹和芭蕉樹,以及藍天大海常常會淡忘下去,而那幾塊光禿禿的大石頭卻始終在我心中揮之不去。它們就像一個抽象的符號,抽象得只剩下一縷幽魂。可這幽魂卻是震撼人心的。

    左岸記:思之深,行之遠!天涯海角有人生盡頭之意,在有情人的心中,就有“愿得一人心,白首不相離”的祝愿。要是再加上天涯海角是古代官吏流放之地的寓意,就更說明了人之一生總是要經歷種種坎坷風雨,需要有情人攜手相知,同舟共濟。

    作者:馬庸,(網名:行吟者、瑙瑪、白頭翁) 自號:華城居士,土家族人。工作40年,八小時之外,三五之夜,清燈一盞,埋首書城,弄墨填格,只問耕耘,然幾載風、數載雨,也小有收獲:撰寫創作各類體裁文章4000余篇約800萬字,陸續在國家、省、市級報刊發表文章1800篇(次),出版120萬字《藍色記憶》專著一部,原創詩歌200篇收入《當代詩人詞家作品匯編》一書。

    左岸

    愛讀書,愛生活!

    2 Comments On 浪跡天之涯海之角

    1. 人在天涯 心在海角

    2. 愛讀書! 書中有美麗的世界

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