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    → 左岸讀書,一如既往。

    小時候的味道

    2015-04-29 . 閱讀: 4,482 views

    文/Ivy

    最近因為食欲不好,想起了很多小時候愛吃的東西。

    清明時節,踏青是必不可少的。我還記得二年級的時候,我尾隨哥哥和他的同學一起去海龍洞。海龍洞是我們那邊山上的一個洞穴,據說一直沿著洞穴走,可以走到海邊,我一直信以為真。那個時候,村里的年輕人還很多,學生也沒那么大的課業壓力,一到清明時節,海龍洞所屬的山上熱鬧非凡。踏青的時候,村里的男女老少都喜歡摘一大把映山紅帶回家,漫山遍野的映山紅可真好看,我大概已經有十多年不曾見過。清明時節,山上還有一種野菜,打花頭。摘回來洗干凈,在鍋里用熱水燙過,再曬,曬干的打花頭弄點腌肉炒炒,真是美味極了。

    清明之后,莊稼人的年就算是徹底過完了,因為一年的播種開始了,再過一個月就可以插早稻的秧苗。這個時候,如果田還沒有犁過,你可以帶個小桶,去田里找田螺。田里的田螺特別肥,一個個足有菱角大,一個傍晚的收獲頗豐,用針把田螺肉挑出來洗干凈,放點辣椒,想想我都有點流口水了。

    再過段時間,蠶豆熟了。小孩子最愛吃蠶豆了,因為蠶豆既可以吃又可以拿來玩。用針線,把蠶豆一個個地串起來,然后打個結,短的套在手腕上,長的可以掛脖子上。讓媽媽把串好的蠶豆放在熱水里煮熟,或者干脆煮飯的時候放在鍋邊蒸。一串蠶豆熟了,就可以掛在脖子上一顆一顆地摘著吃了。剝蠶豆殼也是個樂趣,小心地剝開一頭,然后把蠶豆從另一頭擠出來,這樣剝下來的蠶豆殼就可以套在手指上,一個手指一個,也甚是有趣。

    等到夏天的時候,菜園里的菜可就豐富了,家里吃菜的速度都趕不上菜熟的速度,這個時候可就得為冬天儲備點。比如說,豇豆吃不完,可以用熱水燙熟了曬干,干豆角炒肉可真不賴;辣椒吃不完可以等辣椒都紅了,腌辣椒片或者磨辣椒醬;毛豆吃不完,等它長老了變黃了,曬干了收起來,年底時可是要用來打豆腐的,還可以泡一泡炒牛肉;對了,絲瓜吃不完也可以等著它長老,然后拿它當洗碗布使。北京的毛豆喜歡用鹽水煮了直接當宵夜吃,我們那邊可不這么吃。毛豆特別鮮,做湯最合適。放點雞蛋或者海帶、絲瓜,加上毛豆煮上一大碗湯,最適合夏天在院子里吃晚飯了。我最愛湯快吃完的時候,獨享碗底大把大把的毛豆。

    夏天一過,吃的就少了。冬天里最討厭吃蘿卜和青菜,可把我中學時代吃怕了,我寧愿拿點辣椒醬拌飯也不想吃蘿卜和青菜。其實,蘿卜有特別好吃的時候,蘿卜燒牛肉是我家過年必有的一道菜,那蘿卜經過牛肉的加工,比牛肉都好吃,可惜也只是過年時才能吃到。蘿卜還有一個好吃的法子,做粑心(餡)。不得不說,我老媽做的粑是目前我吃過最好吃的粑。粑心的主料是白蘿卜絲,再加入一些肉末、豆干、大蒜、姜,放入辣椒醬。一般都是頭一天晚上炒熟了,第二天早晨做粑,這是因為涼了的粑心更好做粑。做粑有兩個關鍵的步驟,一個是粑心,另一個就是煎的過程。用油煎出來的粑,我和哥哥都不愛吃;用自家菜籽油煎出來的黃燦燦的粑才好吃,外面一層脆脆的皮,咬一口,粑心里的油就會流出來,一不小心就弄得滿手都是。每次我和哥哥都會爭鍋心的那個粑,因為鍋心的油多,煎出來的粑外皮最好吃。

    老家還有好多好吃的,夏天的時候從池塘里拽一把菱角菜回來,收拾干凈了腌起來,也是頂好的。花生土豆熟的時候,洗干凈了直接煮著當零食吃也是有的。紅薯還可以煮熟了壓成餅,切成一條條的曬干,然后像炒花生一樣炒著吃。還有腌蘿卜干、腌豆角、腌雪里紅,當然少不了腌魚腌肉。

    我們吃的東西越來越豐富,可當你食欲不振時,想起的都是小時候的味道。有些回去還能吃到,有些只能永遠留在回憶里了。

    左岸記:“小時候的味道”即便五年十年都沒機會再吃,也總是會掛念著,一吃就能想起過往時的味道來。這種味覺記憶,纏繞著思鄉的點滴情懷,成為人們最原始的“鄉愁”。對吃過食物的記念恐怕便是《舌尖上的中國》里說的“人類對于食物的敬意”——畢竟是因為它們的存在,才換來我們生命的延續;如果不尊重食物和這片土地,必然是無法得到神的庇護的。

    左岸

    愛讀書,愛生活!

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